30/05/2020

Clean, sort, tidy

Lily, Camberwell, London

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When London went into lockdown 2 months ago I saw footage of the empty streets, and around us the atmosphere fell quiet and still. I decided that at some point I would walk around central London so I could experience the emptiness of the streets I normally enjoy walking around but without the noise, the need to arrive somewhere and the swerving, slowing and accelerating to move around others.

 

Since it looks like shops, businesses and schools will steadily be opening again I thought I must grab the moment to walk in empty London while I can. Of course I should have been working but a very good friend did remind me that I would probably be very annoyed if I hadn’t done the things I can only do now.

So I set off this morning at about 10. If I had walked it would have taken 30 minutes to reach the south side of the river but I decided to take a train to London Bridge - partly to get to where I wanted to be a little faster but also out of curiosity to see how a familiar train journey is different. I shared the carriage with one other person. 

 

London Bridge Station was empty. The hotels, cafes, shops all shuttered up. Most doors have a now tattered home-made sign explaining why they are shut. I fear many of these signs will remain when other doors open again. There are people around. Builders, couriers and van drivers, runners, mothers with children, the occasional office worker having a cigarette break or in search of a sandwich, a few people like me reaching out and into the familiar unfamiliar routes and people who I would normally presume were tourists: taking photos, noticing landmarks, with bum bags, sensible shoes, sun hats and face masks. 

 

I crossed London Bridge, under the very blue sky, sun glistening on the green Thames as the tide went out. I went down to the path along the river past beautiful Old Billingsgate Market, which looks sadly unloved. I stopped by the river railings and also walked out on to a jetty. Once again I was delighted by the quietness. There was the lapping of water, footsteps walking, jogging and scampering, bird song, the occasional screatch and clang of trains coming into the surrounding stations to the left and right of me and the gentle hum of traffic coming over from Tower Bridge (still not clagged with its usual traffic jams). But I think there is usually aircraft, more voices and feet, more traffic roar, more sounds of buildings living. Which all add up to a throng I now notice by its absence.

 

The Tower of London was without its queues and milling about. But there was a Beefeater giving a tour to half a dozen soldiers. All standing at rest or is it at ease?

I followed streets that looked most interesting to walk down, while heading in the eventual direction of St Pauls. Tiny small alleys I have overlooked before. It reminded me of aimless walks getting lost in Venice or the old part of Genoa, which can also be empty and suggest a film set.  

 

Along the way the neccessity of a finding a toilet arose. I wasn't sure that the security gaurds at the Walkie Talkie building would be kind so carried on. An open work space, rent a desk, had their doors wide open and they were more than happy to let me in. Their rooms and desks were all empty. But ready and waiting. 

I overheard a conversation between a shop manager a policeman, it sounded like the policeman was surprised to find out from the shop manager that they would be opening in the next couple of weeks. 

 

Paternoster Square had a person to each stone bench and a collection of builders around the central stepped plinth. And a pair of children on scooters were loving the smooth paving stones. I did then think that my two would have enjoyed this walk too. But equally felt I deserved this walk alone. Pret a Manger was open so an iced coffee and a phone call to my business partner while enjoying the sun (and quietness) of the square meant I also did a little work.

 

Across the river on the Millenium Bridge, past Tate Modern, where I am supposed to have done lots of work this spring and will eventually but we will need to re think everything we were going to do, eventually.

I took the steps down to the river, the banks wide with the tide out. There was a couple of sun bathers and families enjoying the little patches and lozenges of sand. There was also mud. I took some pleasure in having muddy shoes. A little water seeping into my socks. 

Blackfriars Station was also almost empty. But my carriage home had 4 other passengers. 

 

I came home to an empty house, the boys had gone to the park and the cat was locked out. I ignored the as yet un emptied clean dishwasher, the basket of laundry and the left out lunch plates. I did a little work. And I wrote this.